http://honda-tech.com Honda-Tech.com: The unofficial Honda and Acura Technical Resource Site en Sun, 20 May 2012 23:54:15 GMT vBulletin 60 http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/src:honda-tech.com/get//images/misc/rss.jpg http://honda-tech.com http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057676&goto=newpost Sun, 20 May 2012 23:38:02 GMT new to the area but was woundering if any one on here knows of a shop that does dyno tunning on crome in this area. im located around Springfeild,... new to the area but was woundering if any one on here knows of a shop that does dyno tunning on crome in this area. im located around Springfeild, MO. may be a long shot but thanks anyway. ]]> Engine Management and Tuning $MIKE$ http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057676 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057675&goto=newpost Sun, 20 May 2012 23:37:09 GMT Sup Honda-Tech, My name is Ryan. I wanted to make this thread to share my build, maybe give some knowledge, and to receive. I log into ClubRSX... Sup Honda-Tech,

My name is Ryan. I wanted to make this thread to share my build, maybe give some knowledge, and to receive. I log into ClubRSX everyday and only lurk this forced induction section on occasion. I see that mainly this is B series territory. I myself started with a K series. So i figured i could share what i have to maybe catch some interest.

I'll start from the begining.
This thread is about a 2002 Arctic Blue Pearl RSX Type-S

I don't have any pictures of my car when i first purchased it in 2008, but it was in good shape. It had some HID's which i never like. Some yellow fog lights, Tein S-Tech lowering springs and a AEM cold air intake. At the time i knew nothing about cars, but now as i type this i'm glad it had little to no modifications.

I quickly joined ClubRSX to read and learn about my 1st car. It took me about a week to learn to drive a manual but i got the hang of it in no time flat.

my first couple purchases were ebay items. i bought a Ebay shorty header and test pipe for $50. Again knowing nothing about cars i ordered at random. Eventually put the header on, but the POS test pipe sits in my closet to this day. i Bought skunk2 rear LCA's and some Skunk2 Cam Gears.

The Cam Gears obviously served me no purpose and was a quick waste of $400.

About a year or so passed by and i was steadily online reading and learning about the K-series. i caught on fast and like a lot of car enthusiests looking to mod i wanted to turbocharge my car. So i saved $ and saved some more.

2010 Summer this was my first purchase towards boost.







A Full-Race turbo kit with:
Garrett T3/T4 57 Trim
Anodized Black Intercooler
TiAl Q BOV
TiAl 44mm WG
Black 2.5 inch piping

Basically the standard kit with anodizing option on the intercooler :thumbup:

For my birthday i got my stockies powder coated gloss black. As they needed some freshening up.



I soon started thinking that my engine needed some freshening to handle this kit. So i started making my engine build purchases. These were items that had all been used before in previous builds. Nothing special just piece of mind items.

I started by ordering some 9.8:1 Wiseco 86.5mm (.5mm over bore) pistons, ARP Head Studs, Manley Valves, K24 87mm Head Gasket, Innovative 75a engine mounts, a new OEM timing chain tensioner and Type-S oil pump, a Type-S oil pan with a 10an bung pre-welded, Competition Clutch Stage 4 sprung clutch, Hondata K-pro, K-Teller 3 inch Stainless Steel exhaust piping, Vibrant flat black 3 inch muffler. I FAILED to get a picture of my Manley Turbo Tuff Rods and Manley Dual Valve Springs, Fuel Injector Clinic 1100cc injectors, RBC Intake Manifold pre-cut to fit my K20 Head (the water housing is on the front of the K20 head unlike the K24), K-tuned Fuel Rail, 8an and 6an steel braided hose and 8an and 6an fittings, K-tuned 8an inline fuel filter and K-tuned FPR.













I brought the engine and parts to a local shop and had them assemble the engine with OEM bearings.




Clutch mounted




Fuel cage modified for return style fuel system. since the RSX is a returnless system stock.





During all of this i got into a nasty accident on the back of a 4wheeler which pushed my installing and tuning date back. Torn ligaments and 2 broken bones. Surgery was needed.


A metal plate and 6 screw later i started installing parts.









Over this long period of time i was looking for a tuner. There was a lot of happy customers that had went to Innovative Motorworks in Carlisle, PA. Derek Robinson is the tuner there and i got into contact with him about finishing up my install and tuning the car.

I borrowed my brothers truck and a trailer and i headed on my 7 hour trip from Virginia Beach, VA to Carlisle, PA





Derek cleaned up the install and proceeded to breaking in the engine and tuning it. Making 465hp 350tq at 16psi. amazing numbers for this little turbo.







A video of a pull on the dyno.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0I4k7dh0Bk


I drove the car home to put some miles on the fresh engine and changed the oil when i got home. From there though. It was a downhill slope.
Some of it was minor fix easy things but just discouraging. And sometimes parts werent available right away so there was downtime.

Not sure the approproate name for this. But it allows the engine to warm quicker. I guess its not ment for forced induction because its plastic and i blew a hole through the ****er.



No biggie easy fix 3/8NPT plug with some teflon tape and that was that.

Next the stud holding my turbo and manifold together snapped. It literally just fell off when i popped the hood. Must have been pore casting? another no biggie i called Full-Race and they sent me another stud set free of charge. I just didnt drive the car as i was told not being secured properly could warp things.



I then had a bolt snap on my thermostat so i was leaking coolant pretty fast. I don't have any pictures of this but it put my car down for a week or two as i needed a few parts to fix it.

My car would sometimes have a hard vibration under it. i thought it was my strut top hat at first.



So i took the strut assembly out and replaced it but the noise was still there. i crawled under the car to see my mid-pipe from Full-Race resting on the subframe. you can see an ident here



i posted this online and actually thought that it making contact with the subframe made this dent. Derek from IMW posted that he actually had to do this in order for the midpipe to fit. No Problem i called Full-Race, sent them the mid-pipe and come to find out it didn't fit their jig. So they sent me a brand new one free of charge. But my car again sat for about a month.

Following comes the snappage of my passenger side axle. Really odd because its a clean ass cut. It must have been on its last leg because i was driving and accelerating at a normal speed.



I quickly got a new one and driving again. i went to get an alignment because the car needed one. i think i may have put some new tie rod ends in and thats why.

On the way home...







It took a little while to get a new transmission in. The first one that i got was another stock k20a2 transmission. I put it in and could only shift into 1st and 2nd gear. It felt as in 3rd 4th 5th 6th and reverse were not even there. It was empty space when you tried to shift into the gear. No grinds. Bent shift forks were to blame. The guy i bought it from was cool though i shipped it back and got my money. Dodged that bullet. The next one i bought was another K20A2 transmission with a Wavetrac LSD. This one felt butter through every gear.

The car was on the road for a little while. I started noticing a louder ticking sound coming from the head. i head asked some people and a freind of mine with a similar build. K series injectors are known for there loud "ticking" sound so it at first sounded normal. One night i got into my started it up and it had gotten louder. A lot louder. i took it down the street and and the end of it at the stop sign the car shutoff. Deep down i knew this would have my car sitting for a long time. I called a friend and pushed it back to my house.
Here is the culprit:





I believe this is called a chain cog. It seats on the crank by the little peice that you see snapped off. The timing chain and oil pump chain go around this.
The reason this snapped off was because my crank pulley was loose. ridiculously loose. I thought torqueing the crank bolt to spec was apart of the engine build process.

I had a shop redo the timing with new chain, Hybrid Racing Dual Ratchet Tensioner, and HPT lower chain guide.


Everything was buttoned up and the car would not stay running for more than 5 seconds. Fired everytime and shutoff itself down within seconds. I took it from the shop because i knew it wasnt there fault, they even double checked to make sure the ring that the crank sensor reads from wasnt put on backwards. The shop did show me that the crank was damaged where the chain cog seated to it. Im guessing when it was loose it wiggled itself extra play room then got enough room where it hit each side and eventually snapped. The ticking i was hearing was im assuming the cog moving back and forth not keeping the timing perfectly timed.

I got a new engine harness thinking maybe a wire got cut. But that also did nothing.
I think that the chain cog now has too much play room on that crank and is sending back vibrations to the crank sensor and the car is shutting itself down to protect itself. When the car was together i could unplug a sensor and put it in limp mode and the car would idle, idle and idle some more. i drove it 3 miles home like this. My understand is limp doesnt use sensors to operate but more on memory.

But enough of the negative. It's time to get a new crank and rebuild.

I sourced a new Crank. Purchased a new Headgasket, ARP headstuds and took the engine up to Derek at IMW. As i trusted his work having dealt with him before.

The engine is still there. i actually will be going to pick it up in 2 weeks time.

During the time the car has been down i have sold and picked up a few different things. For starters i sold this


because i wanted something more than standard.

So i got into contact with a person all of you know and talk to. Mac at Speed Trapp Consulting. I spoke with him for a good couple of weeks about a turbo that suits my needs. The winner was his Reaper. That i got just before production ended on these for a year.











I am very excited to run this and post up results. But for know i have none!


I sold my entire Hub assembly to a freind of mine with an EM2. i had my sites on the ITR brembos swap for awhile i had findly found one with everything i needed to complete it and already powdercoated black like i wanted.






And to not lengthen this first post up anymore here is just a few other things ive done.









Thanks for looking and stay tuned. I will keep this thread updated :thumbup::hugs: ]]> Forced Induction prsxr88 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057675 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057674&goto=newpost Sun, 20 May 2012 23:37:03 GMT okay so last night on my way home after blowing a coolant hose my lights started flickering and my battery died. i put in a different battery and... okay so last night on my way home after blowing a coolant hose my lights started flickering and my battery died. i put in a different battery and unplug one headlight and rode home over 60 miles just one headlight and everything else working. i changed alternators this morning.. then i check voltage on my battery after starting car and im only geting 11.8 volts at the battery. i check the b+ cable on top of my alternator im only getting 10 volts there any ideas? ]]> Tech/Misc slammedinteg http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057674 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057673&goto=newpost Sun, 20 May 2012 23:31:18 GMT I have a 1989 Accord LXi I'm working on and it will not start. When I turn the key, the dash lights dim something electrical makes a funny noise and the headlights flip up and turn on. I am stumped. Here is a video I posted on YouTube showing the problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5Qf...e_gdata_player ]]> Classic Hondas Wes1311 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057673 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057672&goto=newpost Sun, 20 May 2012 23:21:12 GMT Anybody know where i can get cheap body work and paint down upstate NY or ct area??? Anybody know where i can get cheap body work and paint down upstate NY or ct area??? ]]> Paint and Body jdmredcivtegra http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057672 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057671&goto=newpost Sun, 20 May 2012 23:19:48 GMT im trying to tune my car and as you know s300 only has a z6 map. now im very confused on how to set timing properly. do i use the z6 map and sync... im trying to tune my car and as you know s300 only has a z6 map. now im very confused on how to set timing properly.
do i use the z6 map and sync the distributor to 16 degrees and lock that in. or do i use 12 and than subtract 4 degrees from the whole map

im street tuning it so i dont have access to a dyno

motor is a z6 block with y8 head/cam/gear ]]> Forced Induction v8killaz http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057671 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057670&goto=newpost Sun, 20 May 2012 23:18:43 GMT I am trying to find out the make and model of this wheel.. I took some pictures of the codes printed on the wheel but I cant figure out whats the... I am trying to find out the make and model of this wheel.. I took some pictures of the codes printed on the wheel but I cant figure out whats the make and model.

VIA 690kg A356 - 17X7 J ET40





]]> Wheel and Tire f15Civic http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057670 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057669&goto=newpost Sun, 20 May 2012 23:15:05 GMT Is there a comptech or HFP for fits???? Is there a comptech or HFP for fits???? ]]> Honda Fit jdmredcivtegra http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057669 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057667&goto=newpost Sun, 20 May 2012 23:12:52 GMT Looks like shit. that is all lol Looks like shit. that is all lol ]]> Acura NSX jdmredcivtegra http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057667 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057666&goto=newpost Sun, 20 May 2012 23:11:26 GMT I'm running a 90 Civic in SCCA rallycross, was on my bump stops all weekend. I need suggestions for an OEM spring that's stiffer than my current set up. I've already replaced the shocks with GR2s, can't use aftermarket springs if I want to stay in stock. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. ]]> will46r http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057666 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057664&goto=newpost Sun, 20 May 2012 23:10:47 GMT Anybody know how hard it is to do, diagram possibly????? Anybody know how hard it is to do, diagram possibly????? ]]> Honda S2000 jdmredcivtegra http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057664 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057663&goto=newpost Sun, 20 May 2012 23:09:58 GMT I drove my civic to my friends house and when i was going to go home, i went to start my car and it wouldnt crank. The only thing that will come on... I drove my civic to my friends house and when i was going to go home, i went to start my car and it wouldnt crank. The only thing that will come on is the starter. Thats all u hear when u try to crank the car. Engine oil was also flooded in my spark plugs, i knew my valve cover gasket cause that. I replaced with new spark plugs and gaskets, also cleaned the oil too. The battery is good, so battery is not the problem. I think it might be some wiring or fuse maybe, but idk. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. ]]> Honda Civic/Del Sol (1992 - 2000) team_lunatics http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057663 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057662&goto=newpost Sun, 20 May 2012 23:08:57 GMT 1994 integra LS B20B with 60K and paper work from jdm engine depot car is phoenix yellow with door jams and gas door done Jdm front end with... 1994 integra LS
B20B with 60K and paper work from jdm engine depot
car is phoenix yellow with door jams and gas door done
Jdm front end with black housing head lamps and HIDS all the lights work as they should!!!!!!!
CF lip
Type R spoiler
Bronze rotas (mugen replicas)
T3/T4 stage 3 cx racing turbo kit
Rc440 injecters
engine damper
fully adjustable coil overs and gas shocks
New master Cylinder
new axels oem from honda
Stainless steel from front to back exaust Apexi N1
New distributer, cap, rotor from honda
new spark plugs,
new ignition cables,
new gas shocks for hatch
new oil restricter
voodoo manual boost controller
CF locking hood pins with keys
new rear windshield($1300)
carbon fiber spoon mirrors($418)
rear wiper plug from honda
jdm Rain gaurds
rear roof visor
CF gauge bezel
Spoon valve cover
custom fab front tow hook
extended lugs in black
Broadway mirror
ball bearing quick release steering wheel
Rear lower control arms aluminum and rear lower tie bars and upper tie bar
Quick release batt terminals both
Perstige pager car alarm ]]> Acura Integra jdmredcivtegra http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057662 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057660&goto=newpost Sun, 20 May 2012 23:04:45 GMT Can anyone explain how to go 5 lug with out doing complete conversion, i seen online somebody did spindle and bearing combo for civics/reg integras... Can anyone explain how to go 5 lug with out doing complete conversion, i seen online somebody did spindle and bearing combo for civics/reg integras but didnt list actual specs, please and thank you =] ]]> Acura Integra Type-R jdmredcivtegra http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057660 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057659&goto=newpost Sun, 20 May 2012 23:00:41 GMT im trying to do a valve adjustment for my d16z6 head. im using this guide.... im trying to do a valve adjustment for my d16z6 head. im using this guide. http://www.lvracingscene.com/forum/s...lve-Adjustment

so i set the valves when its on TDC, then spin it 360 and set the other valves, my camshaft wont spin anymore. what could be the problem?? its super stuck when ever i try to spin it back to tdc. ]]> Honda Civic/Del Sol (1992 - 2000) lazyxmofo http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3057659